The all new GWM Cannon ( Poer / Pao / P-Series / Ute ) has a terrible sound system. I mean, I guess if you’re buying a truck, good sounds aren’t the most important thing?!?
But it is important to me! Y’know … doof doof!

Good sounds in a GWM Cannon Ute

So, yep, I have a new GWM Cannon.
And yes, I have a weird habit of upgrading my sound system in my vehicles.
And yes, I seem to have developed a relationship with James at Mad Soundz 🤣

So literally the week I bought the Cannon I started planning the upgrade of the sound system.

Integrated Head Unit

The cannon doesn’t have pre outs, or any line output in the head unit. And the head unit is so integrated into the car, that there is no way I wanted to replace it.

So, a line output converter (LOC) is required 👍

A LOC doesn’t do nearly as good as a proper head unit, but I really don’t have any choice.
The head unit in the GWM Cannon controls the car settings, the air con, the car safety system .. .everything 😲

What is a Line Output Convertor ( LOC )

Firstly, about a LOC.
So, a LOC takes “speaker level input” and converts the signal to “line level output”.
A speaker cable has high power, to drive speakers, but if you’re feeding a signal into an amp, you must use low power (hence why head units mostly have “line out”, which is low level output); The amp wants to power the speakers on its’ own.
the LOC I used is from zero flex industries, and is powered. It produces a slightly better sound than a passive LOC (like from jaycar), but both will achieve the same thing.

The Gear

This was a pretty easy shop for me!
Focal speakers are awesome, and I already owned the fusion powered under seat sub woofers.

  • Focal 130AS Access 2Way 5inch 13cm Component speakers in the front (separate tweeters).
  • Focal 130AC Access 2Way 5inch 13cm in the back.
  • Fusion CPAS1080 8inch active underseat slim subwoofer.

The Installation

The power cable runs from the battery, through the firewall behind the glove box, and into the side kick panel on the passenger’s side.



The line output converter is installed behind the kick panel on the passenger’s side. This allows access the speaker cables of the front left speaker.
Accessory power also runs from the fuse box underneath the steering wheel, to the passenger’s kick panel, and into the LOC.
As mentioned, this LOC is powered, so power is taken from an accessory power source behind the fuse box.


The wiring of the LOC is:

  • Red wire: Accessory Power in (turn this unit on with the ignition), which comes from the fuse box.
  • Black wire: Earth.
  • Blue wire: Accessory power out to the subs (turn the subs on).
  • Grey wire: Speaker in.
  • White wire: Speaker out.


Mains 12v power (from the battery), accessory power, and rca cables are then run to the back of the truck, under the door sills down the passenger’s side.


And finally, the Fusion subs are able to “daisy chain”.
So, the incoming cables are wired into one sub woofer, then the next subwoofer is wired as a “daisy chain” connected sub.



Well I don’t have fine control over the subs, or any fine control over the sounds for that matter, but the truck sounds a shit tonne better than what it did from factory!!!

🔊 🤘



I do like it, where are the rear speaker wires located I’m the kick panel, what colours are they? Where do I connect the blue remote wire too, thank you


Did your headunit not have load detection?Because adding an LOC to these P series headunits and disconnecting the factory speakers shuts down the head units internal amp.


Razeen, definitely no load detection.
I connected the LOC to the passenger door speaker of my P-Series, and it did not shutdown my internal amp.


There’s a bloke called Savage Tech and he has a DSP amp built for the head unit that does not require an LOC, did you look into this amplifier? He also rates the focal speakers, just trying to figure out if it’s powerful enough for good speakers and sub. I enjoyed reading your post and am looking forward to upgrading my sound!


I know savage tech .. the shipping from Australia (where Savage tech are) and New Zealand (where I am) make things from him unaffordable.
Plus lots of his stuff is just bought from aliepxress, then resold in Australia.
Check my post about the decals. I saved myself heaps, not buying from Australia (mostly about freight costs, it’s cheaper to ship from China?!?!?)

I love the focals, they’ve really softened over the months, and sound really nice!


Hi Paul, your videos and images are very useful, however which fuse or wired connection in the fuse box under steering column is the remote wire to be connected to? Is there also a direct wiring harness in kick panels that can be accessed for splicing into speaker wires? rather than going directly to speakers and pulling off door trims. Thanks Darren


Hi Darren,
I’ll try and get a picture of the wire I spliced into at the fuse box.
Basically I played around with a multi meter until I found 12v the was active after power on (i.e. accessory power).
I’m not sure whether there is a harness to splice into, I didn’t even bother looking. I used a multi meter to trace the speaker wires from the door, back inside the cab, then spliced into them inside the cab.

Thanks for your kinds words .. I enjoy spreading the love 🥰


How did you get the tweeters to fit in the factory location (mine are a little too wide to push into the ring the factory ones go)?


Hi ThinkingFox
The products (tweeters) I mentioned above, Focal 130AS Access 2Way 5inch 13cm Component speakers in the front (separate tweeters), fit.


Hi Paul,

Great work mate.

Did you or is there a factory crossover unit for the front component speakers? Or how did you install the fusion aftermarket crossover?


Hey Blair,
I didn’t change any of the factory wiring for the front component speakers.
The truck has factory tweeters and door woofers, so all I did was replace them with a sweet set of Focals.


Hi Paul. Thanks for your information. I have managed to get full sound system replaced. All speakers work through the amp


Hey Paul, just a question, where did you mount the CPAS1080 Subwoofer, my customers GWM has no room under the front seats and behind the rear seat there are 2 vents


Hi have you perhaps got any pics/vids on removing the head unit?I’ve ordered an android replacement unit for my commercial and looking to replace the radio in 2 weeks.


Hey Paul, did you have you use aftermarket speaker spacers for the replacements or were they direct screw-in for aftermarket replacement? Also thanks for providing an helpful overview of your setup as well, always appreciated when you find different mods and tips for your own vehicle (I’ve found this originally from your auto-volume YouTube video so thanks for that find too, I had just assumed I was stuck with it).


Hi im trying to install a amp without using the line out converter as my amp has its own line out converter built in but i cannot seem to fine or figure out were i can get a remote wire from to turn the amp on


Hey Paul. Mate I’m trying to install underseat subwoofer apparently I can just join them straight to door speakers anychance u remember what colour they were. Would save me time pulling doors off to have a look. Cheers


Nah sorry mate, I run cables into the door and attached to the speakers, I can’t remember what colour the wires were.
and yes, you can takes the sound from whatever speaker you want


Colors for the rear speaker on a RHD Australia GWM Cannon X ….RHS Rear Speaker Blue With Red Stripe Yellow with Green Stripe …..LHS Rear Speaker White With Green Stripe ..White With Black Stripe you will see then twisted around each other

ray smith

I fitted savage tech amp with 6inch focal speakers,sounds a lot better,but still lacks bass,maybe need subwoofers.s


Hi all, would anyone have information on how to remove the head unit from a GWM Cannon X 2022. Photos, videos? Thanks

Heinrich Stofberg

I went via the route of fitting the dsp amp from savagetech due to having too much interference trying to use the HPF to RCA converter. Costed me +- $420 nz landed.

My layout consists of: *Savagetech DSP Amplifier RCA out(under driver seat mat)

  • This runs the rear speakers only

*Cerwin Vega 12 inch under seat sub

  • This was fitted under the front passenger seat as it was too big for under the rear seat. Also had to machine spacers to lift seat wiring to have sufficient clearance for sub to fit(perfect fit).

*Cerwin Vega 800watt 2 channel amplifier (under rear seat)

  • This includes speaker wiring running all the way to the front doors and left factory wiring untouched(just unplugged).

*Cerwin Vega 6.5 inch HD series split system(front only)

  • This includes 6.5 inch speaker adaptors from ali express.

This was quite the process to install but well worth it. the sound quality is superb and super loud.


Needing help with My LOC install on my 22 Cannon-X, I’ve got the aero pro 2ch LOC (from Repco), I’m trying to wire it up to a Rockford Fosgate (R2-300X4) Amp, to power the new speakers, however, when all wired up, the light on the LOC pulses and won’t stay powered. Did you have any issues with drawing enough power from the speaker wires.?


I DID have issues :/ I ended up running accessory power direct to my amped speakers to turn them on, as the LOC seemed to draw too many amps to pass on to the speakers


Just recently had installed a Alpine R2-a160f amplifier and alpine r2-s65 speakers 4 of them onto my gwm cannon X, and there seems to be an issue with static noise coming out of speakers, and whenever I’m accelerating, it makes this weird high pitched noise coming out of speakers, I don’t know if I installed it wrong, or it’s something to do with the AMP, could be many factors leading to errors of speakers doing static noises, even on mute the speakers still have it, I’ve also tried doing noise filters but they did no help, can anyone suggest what I can do to get rid of this static noises

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