The all new GWM Cannon ( Poer / Pao / P-Series / Ute ) has a terrible sound system. I mean, I guess if you’re buying a truck, good sounds aren’t the most important thing?!?
But it is important to me! Y’know … doof doof!

Good sounds in a GWM Cannon Ute

So, yep, I have a new GWM Cannon.
And yes, I have a weird habit of upgrading my sound system in my vehicles.
And yes, I seem to have developed a relationship with James at Mad Soundz 🤣

So literally the week I bought the Cannon I started planning the upgrade of the sound system.

Integrated Head Unit

The cannon doesn’t have pre outs, or any line output in the head unit. And the head unit is so integrated into the car, that there is no way I wanted to replace it.

So, a line output converter (LOC) is required 👍

A LOC doesn’t do nearly as good as a proper head unit, but I really don’t have any choice.
The head unit in the GWM Cannon controls the car settings, the air con, the car safety system .. .everything 😲

What is a Line Output Convertor ( LOC )

Firstly, about a LOC.
So, a LOC takes “speaker level input” and converts the signal to “line level output”.
A speaker cable has high power, to drive speakers, but if you’re feeding a signal into an amp, you must use low power (hence why head units mostly have “line out”, which is low level output); The amp wants to power the speakers on its’ own.
the LOC I used is from zero flex industries, and is powered. It produces a slightly better sound than a passive LOC (like from jaycar), but both will achieve the same thing.

The Gear

This was a pretty easy shop for me!
Focal speakers are awesome, and I already owned the fusion powered under seat sub woofers.

  • Focal 130AS Access 2Way 5inch 13cm Component speakers in the front (separate tweeters).
  • Focal 130AC Access 2Way 5inch 13cm in the back.
  • Fusion CPAS1080 8inch active underseat slim subwoofer.

The Installation

The power cable runs from the battery, through the firewall behind the glove box, and into the side kick panel on the passenger’s side.



The line output converter is installed behind the kick panel on the passenger’s side. This allows access the speaker cables of the front left speaker.
Accessory power also runs from the fuse box underneath the steering wheel, to the passenger’s kick panel, and into the LOC.
As mentioned, this LOC is powered, so power is taken from an accessory power source behind the fuse box.


The wiring of the LOC is:

  • Red wire: Accessory Power in (turn this unit on with the ignition), which comes from the fuse box.
  • Black wire: Earth.
  • Blue wire: Accessory power out to the subs (turn the subs on).
  • Grey wire: Speaker in.
  • White wire: Speaker out.


Mains 12v power (from the battery), accessory power, and rca cables are then run to the back of the truck, under the door sills down the passenger’s side.


And finally, the Fusion subs are able to “daisy chain”.
So, the incoming cables are wired into one sub woofer, then the next subwoofer is wired as a “daisy chain” connected sub.



Well I don’t have fine control over the subs, or any fine control over the sounds for that matter, but the truck sounds a shit tonne better than what it did from factory!!!

🔊 🤘



I do like it, where are the rear speaker wires located I’m the kick panel, what colours are they? Where do I connect the blue remote wire too, thank you


Did your headunit not have load detection?Because adding an LOC to these P series headunits and disconnecting the factory speakers shuts down the head units internal amp.


Razeen, definitely no load detection.
I connected the LOC to the passenger door speaker of my P-Series, and it did not shutdown my internal amp.

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